Over the years, hyaluronic acid (HA) has been popularised for being the hydrating skincare ingredient. There are so many products out there proudly claiming that they contain HA — sometimes in multiple forms and molecular weights — to boost your skin's hydration. It is now in a majority of skincare products. If you check the ingredient labels of your products, we can almost guarantee that HA is in most, if not all, of the steps of your skincare routine.
So why are we proudly stating that our products are made without hyaluronic acid?
Our doctors have written a brief introduction into HA, and analysed some of the marketing claims of HA that have been popularised over the years.
Hyaluronic Acid — Its Forms and Functions
In vivo (i.e. inside your body), HA is also known as hyaluronan. It is a GAG (glycosaminoglycan) — a type of sugary carbohydrate, like a sugar-covered doughnut. It is found in many tissues throughout the body and serves many functions.
Our skin is separated into two main layers — the epidermis at the top, and the dermis below. In its native form, HA is of high molecular weight, and in our skin it is found mainly in the deeper layers (the dermis).
HA is a humectant — it attracts water. Native HA sits in the dermis to provide structural support, and helps give your skin that youthful plumpness by drawing water from nearby sources to plump itself up. Native HA has been shown to hold up to 1000× its weight in water. That water is drawn from our diet and our blood supply — which is why drinking enough water regularly is important for skin health.
In synthesised forms, HA exists as many different molecular weights — low molecular weight (LMW) HA, ultra-low molecular weight (ULMW) HA, and the salt form sodium hyaluronate. These are what most skincare products contain.
Popular Marketing Claims About HA
Claim: HA penetrates deep into the skin
Due to its size, high molecular weight HA cannot be absorbed through our skin. So labs have found ways to hydrolyse it into smaller molecules. Many brands now claim that low or ultra-low molecular weight HA can penetrate deeper into the skin to provide long-lasting hydration.
However, even ULMW HA is usually not small enough to reach your dermis, where it would need to be in order to provide that youthful bounce. And no synthesised or LMW HA has ever been clinically proven to hold 1000× its weight in water.
Claim: HA is anti-inflammatory and calming
Native HMW HA is clinically proven to be anti-inflammatory. But because of its weight, it cannot penetrate skin — so those effects are not applicable to topical products.
On the other hand, when we have a wound, our native HA in the dermis breaks down into hydrolysed/LMW HA. That broken-down HA is pro-inflammatory — it's part of the body's wound healing response. This means topical LMW HA and ULMW HA are pro-inflammatory molecules, and can lead to irritation, redness, and increased skin sensitivity.
Claim: HA is extremely hydrating
If you have ever applied HA to your skin or lips, you'll have felt an instant plumping effect. But wait another minute and you'll notice your skin tighten and dry up — often more dehydrated than before.
HA attracts water from its nearest source. For topical HA, that source is your skin. As the water evaporates from the HA over time, you end up with increased transepidermal water loss. To prevent this you need to layer an occlusive (a thick moisturiser, petroleum jelly, or facial oil) over the HA — which raises the question: why not just use the moisturiser without the HA?
Increased redness · Increased dryness · Inflammation · Irritation
If HA has been an essential ingredient in your routine and you've experienced any of the above, try removing it to see if your skin recovers.
Should I Use HA?
Just like a sugary doughnut, HA may give you instant gratification — but won't provide much benefit in the long run, and can actually cause harm.
We recommend reading the ingredient labels of your current products. Overusing HA — having it in every step of your routine — can leave your skin more dehydrated and irritated over time. If you can't quit HA entirely, try limiting it to one step.
That said, this doesn't mean HA is a terrible ingredient. If you have a special event you want to look good for, you can apply HA right before, on damp skin, sealed in with a strong occlusive. It's a tool — just not one for daily use on reactive skin.
Alternatives to HA
Some other hydrating ingredients we use instead:
Glycerin / glycerol. Much smaller in molecular weight than even ultra-low molecular weight HA — about 92 daltons vs 2,800+. That means glycerin can penetrate deeper into the skin and attract water from below the surface, not from your skin's own moisture. Particularly helpful for atopic skin and those prone to eczema.
Propylene glycol. Another small humectant, well-tolerated and stable in formulation. We use it in combination with other actives for sustained hydration without the rebound dryness.
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